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Full Batten
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With infestations at an all time high the recession has bitten and so have the Bed Bugs. The effects of the recession or the slowdown as the government so diplomatically puts it seems to be effecting the Bed Bugs as well as the people, only in a positive way, for the Bed Bug that is. As belts are tightened and we batten down the hatches, it seems that the Bed Bugs are the only ones who are going to sleep tight.
Less and less people are paying for pest control and although this has resulted in a boom in sales for amateur pest control products in the UK it has also resulted in a sharp rise in infestations of a variety of pests. Whilst laying some bait down for mice and rats is easy, dealing with a serious infestation of Bed Bugs is a different kettle of fish.
The biology and nature of a Bed Bug makes it hard to treat and eradicate them successfully. Normal insect sprays from the pound shops or the more expensive ones from the DIY stores may kill a Bed Bug if you have a few but a house full of bloodsuckers can only be dealt with effectively by a pest control company and unfortunately that's where the problem begins. With the competitive pest control market that we have today many companies have resorted to quick and inexpensive treatments usually with cheaper and less effective insecticides in order to get your business.
Effective Bed Bug control can only be achieved by proper preparation and effective and correct treatment procedures. In order to get rid of Bed Bugs the whole property must be treated apart from kitchens and bathrooms unless they have been seen here. An example is in a three bedroom house it is imperative the bedrooms are all treated the loft is treated and the stairways and landings are included. Although some pest control companies don't treat the living room it is one of the most important areas to treat as this is the first place Bed Bugs will land if it is brought in from outside.
This is a detailed guideline of how to prepare your property for treatment.
The following rules apply only to bedrooms, living rooms, hallways and any other rooms other than the kitchen and bathroom.
o All beds should be stripped of bed sheets pillows and duvets. Any beds which have drawers should have the entire contents removed. This is because all beds and headboards should be sprayed with a residual insecticide and the beds should be turned upside down in order to gain access to underside of the bed where the Bed Bugs are normally located. The hessian on the underside of the beds, chairs and sofas should also be cut open in order to maximise the success of any treatment.
o All furniture i.e. wardrobes, drawers and shelving etc. must be cleared of any items i.e. clothes, shoes, toiletries, blankets. There must be no items left in wardrobes, under beds in chest of drawers or any other furniture. All items should be removed and placed in black bags and stored in the kitchen or bathroom.
o It is not necessary to remove televisions, computers or other electrical items as these will not be affected by the treatment.
o In all rooms and hallways it is necessary to clear away all items on the floor apart from any furniture. This is because Bedbugs can also live under the edges of the carpets and in the gaps of floorboards and the carpets and flooring will need to be sprayed.
o The pest control company should spray all the rooms with a residual insecticide. They should spray all furniture and carpets where necessary. Please note that in rare cases it is possible that there may be Bedbugs on some of the clothes that have been removed from the rooms. Once the furniture has been treated and the clothes have been placed back into the furniture the Bedbugs will crawl over the insecticide and die.
o Where the infestation of Bedbugs is very bad the technician treatment the premises may request that some of the beds and/or furniture are thrown away. However the technician should carry out an inspection whilst carrying out the first treatment and advise you accordingly.
The above is normal procedure for a few of the professional companies out there, however the majority of pest control companies and a lot of the local authorities are happy just to take your money and spray a bit of insecticide around the bed and on the carpets and off they go.
The result of this has been a spike of Bed Bug infestations across the UK with no end to the problem. Another reason that has contributed to the problem is the reduction of the use of residual insecticide sprays over the last ten years. With the introduction of cockroach gels and the ever increasing need to be greener and more eco friendly many companies are looking at ways to reduce the uses of harmful sprays and turn to other methods of detection and eradication but at what cost.
Many years ago it was common practice to spray a premises whether they had a problem or not and this normally attributed to the common belief that prevention is better than cure. This was true as during the course of normal cockroach treatments a technician would spray a premises killing the cockroaches but at the same time killing the Bed Bugs too. Now we have moved to the notion that detection is better than cure. With the introduction of cockroach gels that don't smell and enable technicians to treat properties without having to empty kitchen cupboards there has been sharp decline in the use of insecticide sprays and an increase in Bed Bug resistance to the same. Manufactures of insecticides are introducing stronger and more effective chemicals to beat the bugs it what seems to be have turned full circle but my belief is that it's not the chemical itself but how and where it is being applied that is incorrect.
Tony King http://www.pest3.com
Tools For Tiling
For fixing ceramic tiles, a plumb line and spirit level are needed for setting out the rows to true verticals and horizontals; some slim wooden battens are needed to support the lowest tile rows as work progresses; a notched tile adhesive spreader, a tile cutter, a pair of pincers and a sponge are also necessary. A tile-culting jig will speed up cutting straight lines; a tile saw can cut curves. Use a sharp knife for cutting cork tiles; a pair of scissors or snips for metallic tiles; a glass cutter for mirror tiles and a brick bolster and club hammer for pressed imitation brick and stone tiles if necessary.
Finding the level
The next step is to establish an accurately level datum line around the room. Never trust a skirting board to be level more than likely using a skirting board as a level will mean that horizontal rows will not be truly horizontal, and as tiling is completed by returning to the starting point the rows will not line up.
Mark a line on the wall right round the room with a batten and a spirit level, to coincide with the bottom edge of the lowest row of whole tiles. Along this line pin slim battens to the wall with masonry nails; do not drive the nails home, since the battens will have to be prised off again. If nails cannot be driven into the wall (an old tile wall, say) get the battens horizontal by placing them on small stacks of tiles. Next, using a spirit level or plumb line, draw a true vertical line on the wall at the point where tiling is to start - at the edge of the last vertical row of whole tiles (on an unbroken wall) or coinciding with the first row of whole tiles alongside a window or door opening. A vertical batten can be nailed along this vertical line as an extra guide.
Fixing the tiles
Spread the tile adhesive on the wall with a notched spreader, covering an area of about one square metre at a time. Draw the spreader over the adhesive by pressing it down so that the teeth touch the plaster surface beneath; the notches then ensure that the adhesive is spread to a standard depth. Place the first tile on the horizontal batten, line its edge up with the vertical guide line and press it gently but firmly to the wall. Add the next tile alongside the first, with the spacer lugs just touching, and check that its face is level with that of the first tile. If the tiles do not have spacer lugs, use matchsticks or tile spacers between the tiles. Continue along the row until the edge of the area is reached, then add a second, third and fourth row, checking all the time that the tiles are accurately aligned with each other. Spread more adhesive along the area above the wall batten, continuing to add whole tiles until the area is covered or until an obstruction such as a door or window sill is reached. From lime to time, use a spirit level on a batten to check that the tiles are truly horizontal.
Cutting tiles
At a window sill, it is usual to tile the reveals and the sill itself with round-edged or glazed-edged tiles which overlap the edges of the tiles on the face of the wall. So the next job is to mark and cut the pieces of tile to go on the wall beneath the window sill. Mark the tile with a felt pen or Chinagraph pencil, and then score the glazed face of the tile with a tile cutter. To snap the tile along the scored line, either press down on cither side of the line over a straight edge, or use a pair of tile snappers with angled jaws. If the cut edge is rough, use a tile rubbing stone (a sort of coarse abrasive resembling pumice stone) or an oilstone dampened with water to smooth the tile edges. To cut an L-shape, make one cut with a tile saw and the other with a tile cutter. Cut and fit the narrow pieces of tile that frame the window opening; then fit the round-edged tiles within the reveal, butting the round edge neatly over the edges of the cut pieces on the face of the wall. Complete the tiling of the reveals with whole tiles or cut pieces as necessary.
Tiling over door and window openings
Fix support battens over door and window openings to carry the first row of cut tiles over the opening. These, and the main support battens near skirting board level, must be left in place until the adhesive has had time to set - for at least 12 hours, and preferably for 24 - or the tiles will slip under their own weight. When they have been removed, cut and lit the border pieces needed to complete the tiling, buttering adhesive on to the back of each piece before pressing it into place. To cut border pieces turn the tile back to front, mark two points on the sides of the tiles for the position of the score line and then turn the tile over, score it and break it.
Turning a corner
When turning a corner, fix the first vertical row of whole tiles on the next wall before filling in the cut pieces in the angle. With patterned tiles, keep some semblance of pattern continuity by using cut pieces of the same tile to fill the gaps on each side of the angle.
Changes in level
When tiling over existing tiles that stop half-way up the wall, there is a change of level to cope with. If the step is relatively small, fix the last row of whole tiles with their top edges just above the step, and fill the gap behind with plaster, allowing this to harden before carrying on fixing whole tiles above the step. Steps more than about 12mm deep cannot be disguised in this manner. With these you can either stop tiling at the top of the old tiles and finish off the top of the tiling with a hardwood lipping or slips of cut tile set horizontally, or introduce a visual break in the form of a narrow wooden shelf or the quadrant tiles sold for fitting in the corner between a bath and the wall. The alternative is to bring the upper half of the wall up to the same level - with sheets of MDF or plasterboard, for example.
Grouting
When tiling is complete, the next job is to fill the gaps between the tiles with grout. Apply it with a plastic scraper or a sponge, forcing it well into the gaps between the tiles. Remove excess grout from the glaze as work progresses and smooth over the grout lines with a moistened finger or a small rounded slick - a used lollipop stick is ideal. Do not leave grout to set on the glaze as it may be difficult to get off. When the grout has set, polish the tile surface with a clean, dry cloth to finish the job.
About the Author
Also learn some other things to save some money and time which you would be paying to a professional to learn how to overflow cisterns and how to hang fabrics in your room.
Tilers - help please!! How do we attach downpipes on to tile hung exterior walls?
Our tiler has never re-appeared after my OH stupidly paid him in full before he had completed the work - grrr! So now we need to attach downpipes soon - do we drill through to the wall, or to the battens - or is there another way?
Please help, this is causing so many rows...!!
As a builder I have had this situation a few times now and have got over it the same way each time, one example was seven years ago and it is still perfectly secure and functional.
Whether you have concrete or clay tiles, they are both vunerable to breaking and as you are probably aware if you break one it is very difficult to replace it properly.
You don't have to fix your downpipe brackets to the batten or the wall behind; just fixing it to the tiles is sufficient. Downpipes don't weigh much and the water doesn't hang around for long!
Vertical tiles are normally at about 100mm centres and each tile nailed twice. If this has been done and the top finished with a lead apron under the eaves, then this should be stable enough to fix directly onto.
The trick is to use a ceramic tile drill bit to drill the holes in the tiles. They are inexpensive and available from any diy store or tile shop. Do not use the hammer action on your drill as this will most likely break the tile. I would get a 6mm ceramic drill bit and use a red plug and a 1" size six or eight screw, try it on a spare tile first to make sure it fixes ok. You only need to drill through the first (top) tile don’t try and drill through the tiles behind the overlap. Try and fix the brackets so the holes in the tiles are as far away from the edges as you can.
I wish you the best of luck, it is a bit un-nerving having to drill tiles, but have a practise first and you will see that with the right tool for the job, and (hopefully) some good advice....it's easy.
College football recruiting: Clemson gets prize Gator from East Columbus
Travis Conner has developed some pretty fair defensive linemen during his career, including major-college signees Clarence Gaddy (North Carolina) and Forrest Tucker (Auburn).
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